The 7 G-Helper CPU Boost Modes Explained: Which One Should You Pick?
When I first downloaded G-helper, my main goal was a simple and easy way to switch between battery modes of my ASUS laptop, but as I dug deeper into the weeds of its options, some things ended up confusing me. One was definitely seeing the G-helper CPU Boost settings and the variety of options, which only confused me more with their counterintuitive naming. This article will go over in depth each boost mode, giving you the detailed information that I personally wish I had when first seeing these confusing settings. I will touch on not just the “Disable/Enable” portion, but what each mode and word used actually means for your CPU, and more importantly, its performance. By the end, you will understand which mode is right for you, as I’ll save you the trouble of scanning through forums like I had to before. Before we start, if you don’t have G-Helper downloaded, make sure to check out my quick and easy G-Helper Installation Guide here.
What actually is a CPU Boost?
CPU boosting, at its bare bones, is increasing your CPU from its base clock speed to drive stronger performance and power from it. This is possible as long as there is thermal and power headroom, which can allow your laptop to perform better at times when your CPU might be put under load. Now I’m sure you’re wondering – If it’s such a simple concept, then why are there so many damn modes? Yeah, that one stumped me, too. The reason for all these convoluted modes is that spiking your CPU’s clock speed generates a lot of heat – and fast. It also significantly changes your power draw, so if you’re on a laptop like me, it’s definitely something to pay attention to. G-Helper here is essentially exposing Windows’ internal PROCESSOR_PERF_BOOST_MODE power setting for your CPU, allowing you the freedom to choose it based on your best fit.
How to access
1. To access your CPU Boost in G-Helper, first navigate to the fans + power section within your main G-helper, as seen in the image on the left.
2. After that, simply open up the CPU Boost menu on the left side to see and choose all of your options.
Two Dimensions that explain all 7 modes
Now, before we go into the specific modes, one conceptual understanding that helped me is the idea of there being two dimensions of choice for your CPU’s boost.
Dimension 1 — Boost Aggressiveness
This dimension decides how STRONG your CPU will be boosted, and there are 3 main modes.
- None – No boost
- Standard – Boost when needed
- Aggressive – Boost eagerly, holds for longer
Dimension 2 — Who Controls the Boost Decision
This dimension decides what actually controls the decision to activate the boost – and it’s more nuanced than you might think.
- Standard – the OS schedules requests as a boost based on the load it observes
- Efficient – the CPU hardware itself decides via the CPPC (Collaborative Processor Performance Control). This is a strong decision because the CPU has much stronger real-time info on its own performance and thermals.
- At Guaranteed – the CPU boost is capped at the CPU’s guaranteed sustained frequency, meaning it’s a predictable ceiling and there won’t be any strong thermal spikes above normal amounts.
- Side tip – Your CPU’s sustained frequency is the clock speed that it can hold indefinitely, under load, without thermal or power limits forcing it lower.
Heres the 2 dimensions broken down visually, and what it means for youe CPU’s Clock Cap
| Mode | Aggressiveness | Controlled By | Clock Cap |
|---|---|---|---|
| Disabled | None | — | Base clock |
| Enabled | Standard | OS | Max boost |
| Aggressive | Aggressive | OS | Max boost |
| Efficient Enabled | Standard | CPU (CPPC) | Max boost |
| Efficient Aggressive | Aggressive | CPU (CPPC) | Max boost |
| Aggressive at Guaranteed | Aggressive | OS | Guaranteed clock |
| Efficient at Guaranteed | Standard | CPU (CPPC) | Guaranteed clock |
What does this mean for you?
Each of these two dimensions shows that the difference in modes isn’t linear, but decided by a 2d range of dimensions. Depending on your goal and specs, keeping both dimensions aligned properly is the key to finding your best CPU Boost mode.
All 7 modes — one at a time
Disabled
In this mode, the CPU boost stays at base clock speed. It will use the lowest power, have the lowest heat, and definitely keep your laptop the quietest. But before you go choosing this to save your battery life, I believe there is still a better option that maintains some versatility when it comes to your laptop’s power, which will be touched on soon.
Enabled
This is the Standard OS-Driven boost. This boosts the CPU when the Windows scheduler sees demand. This is the default behavior that your laptop would likely have and keep without G-Helper installed.
Aggressive
Still, an OS-drive boost that triggers much more eagerly and holds on for longer. This will allow the laptop to feel smoother at times of strong use, but it will definitely increase the heat, while also draining your battery if you’re not plugged into the charger. Personally, I use my ASUS Zephyrus off of battery most times, so I tend to steer away from Aggressive mode.
Efficient Enabled
This is the same intent as enabled – turning on when demand is needed – but it uses your CPU’s direct hardware to decide when that need arises. This makes for a relatively more efficient boost timing, which should save you both power and excess heat. If you’re using a Ryzen, the CPU will definitely see a boost as it sees its internals in real time.
Efficient Aggressive
This is similar to the previous in the sense that it’s controlled by your CPU hardware instead of the OS, but during boost, it will typically run stronger and for longer amounts of time. This, I would say, is the sweet spot for the desktop feeling of smoothness, specifically when your laptop is plugged in.
Aggressive at Guaranteed
This will continue to use the CPU boost aggressively, but will not allow its clock speeds to go above the sustained frequency. This will keep performance predictable and prevent still prevent some of thermal throttling. (If you’re curious what sustained frequency is, check the guaranteed section stated previously.
Efficient at Guaranteed
This is a hardware-managed boost, just like all efficient boosts, but capped at guaranteed frequency. This is essentially the predictable, but also perfectly managed mode. This is also the mode I currently use.
Which Mode to Pick — Made simple
- Gaming, plugged in to battery, MAX FPS -> Efficient Aggressive
- This will keep your CPU boosted to its max strength, while still being efficient with its heat, to be careful of thermal throttling.
- Productivity on battery -> Disabled/Efficient at Guaranteed
- Disabled will keep all boosting off to keep your laptop alive the longest
- Efficient at Guaranteed will maintain that smoothness you need to not get distracted, while still keeping battery usage to a minimum
- Sustained heavy workload -> Aggressive at Guaranteed
- Will keep your laptop from overheating, while boosting to the strongest sustainable amount
- Silent mode / Library / Coffee shop -> Disabled
- CPU boost is one of the biggest causes of unexpected fan ramps on most laptops
- Disabling will keep your laptop alive the longest as well – pair it with an undervolt to your CPU for the biggest battery gains. My G-Helper Undervolt Guide shows how I personally found my perfect undervolt while also increasing the performance of my CPU.
- “Set it and forget it” -> Efficient at Guaranteed
- An all-purpose default mode, and the one I personally use. It’s the perfect one to keep if you don’t plan to tweak it, as it will save power, but also boost at a safe, predictable rate when needed. I’ve been using this one myself for 2 months now, and have seen no problems at all.
Overall, your CPU boost is up to your specific use case, unique to whichever use you might have for your laptop/pc. Remember to keep in mind that each modification is based on its own unique part, but is a connection of 2 different dimensions of options. I personally found it Efficient at Guaranteed a nice and simple mode to keep on at all times, because I personally use my laptop on battery most of the time. If you’re the type to keep it plugged in, more like a desktop, don’t be afraid to keep it on an aggressive setting to get the most out of your hardware.
