Best G-Helper Settings: The Complete Profile Guide
Your laptop’s stock software gives a fraction of the control that G-Helper does, with the added bloat as well. G-Helper, a free minimal application, makes it feel crazy that this much control can come from a few clicks. But with this amount of freedom, also comes a lot of decisions, some that you may not have the energy to worry about. Over my time using G-Helper on my ASUS Zephyrus G16, I have found arguably the best settings for any type of use case. If you haven’t installed G-Helper yet, start with our G-Helper Download Guide.
Whether you’re an avid gamer or a college student trying to keep your laptop alive throughout physics class, this guide will have 3 distinct profiles, one for each way you actually use your laptop. I’ll walk through the exact values that I’ve found best from my experience, so if you’re not the type to experiment, you can simply set it and forget it.
| Setting | Performance | Balanced | Battery |
|---|---|---|---|
| CPU Boost | Aggressive at Guaranteed | Efficient Enabled | Efficient at Guaranteed |
| GPU Mode | Ultimate / Standard | Standard | Eco (iGPU only) |
| Refresh Rate | Max (e.g. 240Hz) | Auto | 60Hz |
| Fan Curve | Turbo | Balanced | Silent (off until 60°C) |
| Undervolt | −15mV or more (if tested) | −15mV or more (if tested) | −15mV or more (if tested) |
| Brightness | Preference | Preference | Lowest comfortable |
Bookmark/Screenshot this table; continue reading for the reasoning on each of these.
The single biggest setting – CPU Boost behavior
When using your laptop for basic things like browsing or work/school, your CPU will be the main processor doing all the heavy lifting. For this reason, G-Helper provides a variety of CPU boost types, which essentially divert more or less power to your CPU, boosting its power and clock speeds. Now, this does make for a stronger system, but at the cost of a lot of your battery life, so the nuances are important. To find it, head into the “Fans + Power” section; it’ll be on the left side.
CPU Boost – Performance
Looking for consistently strong performance? The best choice is undoubtedly Aggressive at Guaranteed. This setting strongly boosts your CPU while keeping it within a manageable range before it starts to overheat. Personally, I’ve used this for gaming, and it has gotten me stronger frames with an even cooler CPU.
CPU Boost – Balanced
A simple but safe choice here is Efficient Enabled; it boosts whenever your laptop’s under load, then dials down when you’re idling.
CPU Boost – Battery
The best choice for preserving your laptop’s battery while still getting a tiny bit of performance is going to be Efficient at Guaranteed; It keeps your CPU at its guaranteed base clock, preventing any unneeded spikes that would dig into battery reserves.
Overall
These three Boosts should cover 99% of real scenarios, but remember a strong CPU boost will drain any laptop’s battery in an instant, so stay aware of what mode you’re on. If you want a stronger deep dive into CPU boosting down to its fundamentals, check out my G-Helper CPU Boost Guide
Undervolting (the universal win)
Undervolting is the one setting that anybody can change and still see a genuine benefit from. This setting essentially lowers the power sent to your CPU with little to no performance loss. Although I won’t go into the weeds of how it works here, it undoubtedly reduces heat and power usage over time, making it almost a freebie for CPU efficiency. Be careful, though, as pushing too hard can result in possible issues.
Where to Undervolt
Clicking into the same Fans+Profiles menu as before, navigate to the “advanced” settings to find your undervolting setting. As seen on the right, I have mine set to -25mV which I tested to be the most efficient for my CPU.
My Recommendation
A simple but safe undervolt that would work on essentially every laptop would be -15mV. This keeps it well under a range of any worry, while still giving you upfront benefits like heat reductions and battery conservation. If you want to maximize your benefits by pushing further, please check out my Undervolt Guide to see a safe way to find your laptop’s limit.
Display — Refresh Rate + Brightness Settings
I’ll be honest: these settings are pretty straightforward and most battery-relevant. Your refresh rate and brightness are completely subjective if you’re plugged into a charger, but once you’re on battery, they become very significant to how long your laptop will stay alive.
Refresh Rate
Navigate to your basic G-Helper menu to see the “Laptop Screen” setting similar to the image below-
Now my personal G16 Zephyrus goes to 240Hz, but yours might be different. Whenever you’re on battery life and don’t need the extra smoothness, make sure to set it to 60Hz. If you tend to only game while charging, like me, simply set it to auto, and it will revert to your highest HZ whenever you plug in a charger.
Brightness
Your laptop’s brightness is one of the easiest things to control, but surprisingly has one of the largest effects on your battery life. Now this setting is mostly subjective to your preference, but make sure to limit the brightness to the lowest you find comfortable to save the most battery life while you’re working/browsing on the go. If your laptop has an OLED panel like my ASUS ROG Zephyrus, its battery drain comes from both the brightness and the content on screen; an all-black wallpaper will mimic the drain the LED screen would have when off.
Fan Curve adjustments
Although it might be tempting to ignore the fan curves as they aren’t one of the core pieces of hardware, they are crucial to the comfort and reliability of your laptop. With each of these powerful parts being packed tight, the heat they can generate is immense and possibly worrisome if left hot for too long. Find your fan curves by clicking on the “Fan+Power” section.
A simple layout
Laptop fans can be notoriously loud over time, so make sure to use the proper fan setting for your use case. You can switch through these modes at the very top of the G-Helper section, giving you quick and simple access.
Fans – Performance
Make sure to use Turbo Mode whenever pushing your laptop to the limit to keep its internals from overheating.
Fans – Balanced
Balanced Mode will allow for both strong cooling for high demand and quieter operation during times of rest.
Fans – Battery
Keeping your fan profile on Silent Mode will not just save you battery life but also noise, as it keeps fans to a minimum.
Sidenote
These basic fan curves should suit most of your needs, but if you were like me when I first got my laptop and want to tune these curves to perfection, I’ll link a guide here to my G-Helper Fan Curve Walkthrough, where it teaches you how to edit the perfect fan settings for whichever scenario you might need your laptop for. My personal favorite is the stealth curve (Shown on the left), which allows for complete silence of those annoying fans whenever I’m studying in class or researching at a public library.
GPU settings (iGPU vs dGPU)
This setting applies to any laptop user who has both an iGPU (GPU integrated into the CPU) and a dGPU (Dedicated GPU). The reason this distinction is so important is because of the difference in energy drain. iGPUs tend to be much lighter in their computing, having less power but still being enough for any simple tasks on your laptop. Dedicated GPUs, on the other hand, deliver staggeringly more performance, at the cost of a lot more energy drain
Where to switch modes
In your main G-Helper layout, you will see your GPU Mode settings. Here is the distinction between each mode.
GPU – Performance
Ultimate Mode – This gives your graphics completely over to your dGPU, which is great for games or serious creative work, but a complete waste of battery when doing normal tasks like casual work or scrolling social media. Keep OFF when on battery if you want any type of longevity for your charge.
GPU – Balanced
Optimized Mode – This is a special choice, which switches to standard mode when your battery is charging, but to eco mode when it’s not. This is a versatile choice that allows you not to stress over your GPU mode too much.
GPU – Battery
Eco Mode – This mode solely uses your iGPU, turning your dedicated GPU completely off. This will have unparalleled gains for your battery life and is probably the most impactful on its drain if you forget to switch it on.
Putting it all together: Settings Profile checklist
Let’s go over each of the settings for all three modes. If you’re following a specific mode, make sure you have all these settings checked off for the best results.
Performance Profile
- CPU Boost — Aggressive at Guaranteed
- GPU Mode — Ultimate
- Refresh Rate — Max (e.g., 240Hz)
- Fan Curve — Turbo
- Undervolt — -15mV or lower (if tested)
- Brightness — Preference
Balanced Profile
- CPU Boost — Efficient Enabled
- GPU Mode — Optimized (auto-switches on AC/battery) or Standard
- Refresh Rate — Auto
- Fan Curve — Balanced
- Undervolt — -15mV or lower (if tested)
- Brightness — Preference
Battery Profile
- CPU Boost — Efficient at Guaranteed
- GPU Mode — Eco (iGPU only)
- Refresh Rate — 60Hz
- Fan Curve — Silent (off until ~60°C)
- Undervolt — -15mV or lower (if tested)
- Brightness — Lowest comfortable
My real-world results on Zephyrus G16 – Battery Settings
I personally started to use my laptop more for light studying and coding during the day, so I decided to adopt the battery settings schema. Your current discharge is a useful tool to measure how efficient your device is, so try these settings and see if you can beat my 13W.
- Before – 3 Hours of typical lightweight coding/browsing/scrolling
- After 7+ hours of use when coding/writing/browsing.
- ~13W average discharge (Very Low)
These six settings took my G16 from a 3-hour brick to a usable 7+ hour laptop that supports my workflow and overall schedule. Whether you’re trying to maximize your battery or get the fastest FPS on CS2, these 3 profiles will let you see your laptop’s true potential.
